Dover Beach: winter over the Kerkyra Sea

The sea is calm to-night.
The tide is full, the moon lies fair
Upon the straits; —on the French coast the light
Gleams and is gone; the cliffs of England stand,
Glimmering and vast, out in the tranquil bay.
Come to the window, sweet is the night-air!
Only, from the long line of spray
Where the sea meets the moon-blanch'd land,
Listen! you hear the grating roar
Of pebbles which the waves draw back, and fling,
At their return, up the high strand,
Begin, and cease, and then again begin,
With tremulous cadence slow, and bring
The eternal note of sadness in.

Sophocles long ago
Heard it on the Ægæan, and it brought
Into his mind the turbid ebb and flow
Of human misery; we
Find also in the sound a thought,
Hearing it by this distant northern sea

The Sea of Faith

Was once, too, at the full, and round earth's shore

Lay like the folds of a bright girdle furl'd.

But now I only hear

Its melancholy, long, withdrawing roar,

Retreating, to the breath

Of the night-wind, down the vast edges drear

And naked shingles of the world.

Ah, love, let us be true

To one another! for the world, which seems

To lie before us like a land of dreams,

So various, so beautiful, so new,

Hath really neither joy, nor love, nor light,

Nor certitude, nor peace, nor help for pain;

And we are here as on a darkling plain

Swept with confused alarms of struggle and flight,

Where ignorant armies clash by night

ΠΈΜΠΤΗ, 24 ΙΑΝΟΥΑΡΊΟΥ 2013 ~ Έναρξη λειτουργίας των Γραφείων Αντιμετώπισης Ρατσιστικής Βίας στα Ιόνια ΝησιάΑπό την Γενική Αστυνομική Διεύθυνση Περιφέρειας Ιονίων Νήσων, ανακοινώνεται η ίδρυση Γραφείων Αντιμετώπισης Ρατσιστικής Βίας στις Αστυνομικές Διευθύνσεις Κερκύρας, Ζακύνθου, Κεφαλονιάς και Λευκάδας.Τα Γραφεία Αντιμετώπισης Ρατσιστικής Βίας στελεχώνονται με ειδικά εκπαιδευμένους αστυνομικούς και αντικειμενικός σκοπός της λειτουργίας τους είναι:...

-η αυτεπάγγελτη ή ύστερα από σχετική μήνυση ή καταγγελία
διερεύνηση αδικημάτων ή εκδήλωση ενεργειών που μπορεί να προκαλέσουν διακρίσεις, μίσος ή βία σε βάρος προσώπων λόγω της φυλής, του χρώματος, της θρησκείας και της εθνικής ή εθνοτικής τους καταγωγής.
-η συλλογή, επεξεργασία και η κατάλληλη αξιοποίηση πληροφοριών και στοιχείων που αφορούν τη διάπραξη ή την προπαρασκευή αδικημάτων με ρατσιστικά χαρακτηριστικά.
- η συνεργασία με κρατικές, κοινωνικές ή άλλες Υπηρεσίες και Οργανώσεις καθώς και κοινωνικούς Φορείς με σκοπό την αποτελεσματικότερη διαχείριση περιστατικών ρατσιστικής βίας.
Οι πολίτες μπορούν να απευθύνονται:
-Στην Κέρκυρα στην Υποδιεύθυνση Ασφαλείας Κέρκυρας (Αλυκές
Ποταμού- Κέρκυρα) στα τηλέφωνα 26610 29176-29170 και στο fax 26610 22214
-Στη Ζάκυνθο στο Τμήμα Ασφαλείας Ζακύνθου (Λομβάρδου 62-
Ζάκυνθος) στα τηλέφωνα 26950 24490-24494 και στο fax 26950 44871
- Στην Λευκάδα στο Τμήμα Ασφαλείας Λευκάδας (Ηρώων Πολυτεχνείου 30-Λευκάδα) στο τηλέφωνο 26450 29375 και στο fax 26450 22941
-Στην Κεφαλονιά στο Τμήμα Ασφαλείας Αργοστολίου (Βιομηχανική Περιοχή Αργοστολίου) στα τηλέφωνα 26710 27842-27843-28404 και στο fax 26710 25270
Επιπλέον έχει τεθεί σε λειτουργία ο πενταψήφιος ειδικός αριθμός κλήσης - 11414 - στον οποίο, καθʼ
όλη τη διάρκεια του 24ώρου, είναι δυνατή η γνωστοποίηση ή καταγγελία διάπραξης κάθε άδικης πράξης με ρατσιστικά χαρακτηριστικά ή κίνητρα.

This on Corfu Country - Κερκυραϊκή Xώρα - posted by the journalist Dimitris S Karidis - Δημήτρης Σ. Καρύδης - in Corfu:

THURSDAY 24 JANUARY 2013 ~  Opening of an Office of Response to Racial Violence in the Ionian Islands
The General Police Directorate of the Islands Region, announced the establishment of Offices of Response to Racial Violence in Police Departments in Corfu, Zakynthos, Kefalonia and Lefkada.
The Racial Violence Response Offices staffed with specially trained officers to: ...
- pursue indictments and respond to complaints
- investigate offences or incidents that can lead to discrimination, hatred or violence against persons because of race, colour, religion and national or ethnic origin.
- collect and analyse information and data that relates to the commission or preparation of offences that may be racist.
- co-operate with governmental, social, or other agencies and organisations and also other social organisations in order to achieve more effective management of racist violence.
Citizens can contact:
- Corfu Subdivision Security (Alykes River-Corfu) to 26610-29176 to 29170 phones and fax 26610-22214
- Zakynthos Security Department (Lombardia 62 - Zakynthos) to 26950-24490 to 24494 phones and fax 26950-44871
- Lefkada/Lefkas Security Department (University of Heroes 30-Lefkas) on telephone 26 450 and 29375 fax 26450-22941
- Kefalonia, Argostoli Security Department (Industrial Area Argostoli) phone at 27842-27843-28404 and 26710 fax 26710-25270
Moreover, there is also a dedicated 24 hour phone number - 11414 - on which it is possible to report or complain about any act that is or appears to be racially motivated.

DESTROY FASCISM from ThePressProject on Vimeo.

Do you not see a round disk of fire somewhat like a guinea?

In two hours it'll be over England. I can't remember sunrise over Handsworth, much as I love the place and enjoy its dawns, seeing the sides of tower blocks turn to gold, cycling alone across the Hockley flyover to take an early train from stygian New Street. In Corfu I'm often watching the earth as it hurries east. No English sun has made me nervous, emerging slowly, lustering dew. In Greece by May I'm averting my eyes, sensing the warmth of an opened furnace. Winter Greece is frosty at night, but the sun, from a clear sky, corrals the morning mist, shepherds the chill, making January an English summer.
We've worked for hours on the allotment.  I ache. But we've made a second path, turned more earth, set onions, planted more flowers in the borders, sown more potatoes.

What was burned is alive

I am in Corfu, in Ano Korakiana. When I woke on the first day I watched the sun rise from the balcony at 208. Then I had a cup of tea. I went to the bottom of the garden and saw that the charred tree behind the house is already, in winter, sprouting shoots. The lemon and orange trees are heavy with fruit. Charred ground is covered in green. I exchanged greetings with the neighbours. Bought bread and butter at the shop. It didn't seem to matter that our roof is in a mess; that the airline has lost one of my bags in Athens. I feel it will come right.
I went down to the harbour at Ipsos to check Summer Song was secure. John, when I dropped in for a tea and an egg and bacon sandwich at Ipsos, said he'd driven, with the money CJ's had collected for the Greek Fire Disaster, to the village of Kakovatos on the middle of the west coast of the Peloponnese where it had been used to buy animal feed.

* * *

Nov 22: Dear Lin. Flights were uncomplicated and uncrowded. Had 3 seats to myself on both legs and arrived in Corfu at 0625 in darkness. Carousel delivers only one of the cases. Eleni in lost property says it’s in Athens and. of course, it's the heavy one missing. Maybe it looked suspicious under the X-rays. I must phone first thing tomorrow for the morning flight from Athens. She’s confident it’ll turn up. Meanwhile the quilt is on the bed. I couldn’t find the car for 30 minutes then found the ‘Mr Simon’ sign in a larger white saloon near the lake. No wonder I missed it. By then it was a perfect pink misty dawn with promise of the sun we’ve had for most of the rest of the day.
Leftheris and Lulu send their love. They were so welcoming. The new bedroom is pristine. No water has got under the stable door – whose bottom half tho' is v.sticky as you’d guess. Kitchen is fine, as is dining room. So it’s all entirely liveable and lovable as ever and Bubble is roaming outside being fed by the Leftheris who've looked nicely after our plants. Aln came up swiftly at 1130 and we spent the next two hours inspecting and talking. The long and the short of it is that even what tiny bit of electrics X has done is dangerous and I can see why. Aln said ‘I’ll do it’. We perched on the roof and surveyed.

There’s not a lot to add to what we’ve already learned from the exchange of photos, just a growing general impression that except for Z's electrical work, and his and Y's plastering, our first gang of 'builders' didn't have much idea about building whether its’ about plakering, roofing or putting in windows. Aln kept apologising for bearing bad news but I kept thinking that the best work get’s done on 208 Democracy Street when you and I are there, doing it ourselves or supervising someone else doing what we can’t do. ‘Roofing shouldn’t be done at this time of year’ said Aln pointing out a multitude of familiar problems.

D & M have made the new roof waterproof, D, having cut off the beam ends (since Aln visited while we were in Birmingham) and hung a skirt of waterproof lining over that edge and under the tiles. There are no leaks we can see in our bedroom or the spare room. But as you know the seals at either end, tho’ OK for the moment, will need replacing properly. You know this already.

I had a comfortable catch up snooze this afternoon and did some local gov work for my return sitting up in a bedroom warmed by hot water bottle and the electric radiator D has put upstairs and which is being used to dry sheets. A cat messed my cycle pannier and a corner of the top sitting room. I’ve cleaned and disinfected. The SIM card works fine and I’ve spoken to D to arrange a meeting tomorrow or Friday. He sounds his usual laid back self.

I saw John at CJs for an egg and bacon butty, he said ‘Hi’ as though I’d not been away and sends his version of love to you ‘So Lin’s let you off on your own for a while then? (:))’ Aln has spoken to P re a Greek builder who works for him. He speaks no English but he will send him up to look over the house, the roof in particular, with L who’ll translate. It could be a useful back-up.

I think more and more that we should be here when any work is done. We learn. We negotiate. We inspect. We can arrange payment. I think we should gulp and say hold everything. The quality of work done by the September gang means we need to learn and shift our attitude to improvements and repairs on this place. I love it but its been messed with by amateurs. Take that window. I was so pleased to see the view again I didn’t think to note how incredibly shabby is its installation. I don’t need to go into the details. You know. I have nonetheless been using my camera and have a few choice shots and quotes from Aln for you to savour. The electrics in the sitting room can wait and we can look for a proper plasterer to finish that room and repair the unevenness of that arch ‘What did they think they were doing?’ says A. Then comes the floor and the flue.

These things will just have to wait. The roof is leaking but not seriously. There’s dampness near the front opposite the balcony. Aln says there's a ‘soft spot’ in the roof but it's something easily braced – almost certainly not serious given the weight the old roof has been happily supporting.

I’ve phoned X and he is going to do the cupboards in the kitchen before I leave. I think that’s enough to be going along with. I’ll check the electricity bill tomorrow. They were closed by the time I finished with A and there was no bill at the shop, tho’ they are due every 2 months. Hope things are still standing in Handsworth. S XXXX (and to our children)

Nov 24: Dear L. The bag was waiting for me this morning at the airport. I've paid Kostas for the car and visited the electrical place. The bill estimate was €110 and I was advised to pay another €70 to cover us until the next bill. They had no idea why we'd not got a bill yet. I'm glad it's paid and I have a receipt and I have figured out the complicated route to get to where you pay.
X is doing the cupboards on Monday. Any other jobs I should suggest? Like fixing the balcony tighter? Putting in a shelf somewhere else? Putting up some hooks? Making me a boiled egg and soldiers?...
The old roof has been stripped to the waterproof paper leaving a margin of mortar round the edge which is why damp has got in the sitting room. Aln reckons its v.mild damp and that the roof will be OK until Spring. I'm saying this so that I can feel OK telling D & M not to do more work - except the last strip by the guttering - unless we're there.
Aln pointed out that Y had put staples through the waterproof paper to hold it on - an absolute 'no no' encouraging leaks once the water's found its way through. A did say ellenike could be OK but that you still need a roofer who knows how to put it on and how to place different shaped thigh tiles so that it looks nice.

The garden isn't yet overgrown but no doubt will be by Spring the way Greek vegetation flourishes. Your rockery looks solid and green. This morning mist lay below me and far across the island. Beautiful to view but I'm glad we're above it. I will cuddle Bubble. I think she's pregnant.Kostas and I were chatting in general terms over 'problems'. He spread his arms and looked at me compassionately. 'Because you are a normal good English person, everybody tries to be a bastard! Not for profit - just friendly - you know'. In a nutshell. 'You must be firm! Tell them!' The bed was so big without you. I had to kick the hot water bottle this morning. X S

Stephan Jaskulowski's brilliant map

Stephan's map of Corfu
Originally uploaded by Sibad.

The more we roam Corfu - by cycle, car or on foot - the more I come to see the scale of the achievement of Stephan Jaskulowski in making this map of the island in 1996. Stephan was a working resident of Corfu in the 90s, found published maps of Corfu inadequate and in places hazardously innaccurate. Being a border state the authorities discouraged surveys. Over 3 years Stephan travelled over the island on foot, cycle, scooter and car with compass, altimeter and hand-held GPS checking roads, footpaths and tracks. This detailed map rich in additional information and inset plans of the city of Corfu is a unique labour of love. I wish Stephan would make a revised version that would pick up changes since he completed this project, but imagining the sheer scale of his original achievement I don't blame him hesitating. I still prefer this map to any other for exploring - and I don't want to know everything anyway and I can always ask for directions - though I'ver found that a gesture to take a right turn often means take a left and vice versa. The mainland stretched north to south in a tableau of varying greys in the damp air this morning. The shores are distinct and darker but beyond are the lighter and more distant peaks of the Grammos in Epirus - site of campaigns that 58 years ago concluded a catastrophe so terrible that even now it starts a lump in my throat to think of such happenings in a land we English have found so kind to us and of whose civility we hold such confident illusions. The vista is framed by the foreground of Vido Island and, even closer, Ipsos' breakwater and its cluster of masts including 'Summer Song's'. I caught the Korakiana bus into town to do some WiFi work and will catch it back to AK in an hour. Stephan e-mailed me on 8 May "Thank you very much once again for your very kind words and endorsement of the map." To get the map while supporting Agni Animal Welfare Fund visit www.agni-animal-welfare-fund.com/Maps.asp

Democracy Street, Corfu, Greece

Democracy Street, Ano Korakiana Originally uploaded by Sibad.

DEMOCRACY STREET - the one we know - is in a village on Kerkyra or Corfu (Κέρκυρα), an island in the Ionian, close to the coast of Epirus, which includes Albania and the Greek mainland. The main town, which feels like a city, is also called Corfu. Ano (Upper) Korakiana - Ανω Κορακιανα - [Κόρακας means raven or crow] is in the widest part of the island on the slopes of the Troumpetta range - an hour's cycle ride, for me, from the port. Democracy Street runs through Ano Korakiana past the church of the Archangel Michael, past the Arestides Metallinos Museum, the school, a kafenion with views towards the mainland, the bandstand and the cluster of houses known as 'Little Venice' (for its architecture), turning north up a sinuous road past the small church of St.Isadoras, to Sokraki and over the mountains to the north coast. Westward, Democracy Street passes three general stores and surgery to a hairpin bend that leads to choices - one road running eastward again, almost parallel to Democracy Street (linked to it via steep footpaths between tightly clustered houses) to Ayios Markos and the sea at Pyrgi and Ipsos joining a north-south road along the east coast, another southwards via Kato (lower) Korakiana to the capital, and another westward to the sea via Skripero to Paleokastritsa on the west coast or Sidari in the north west. * * * Small facts gleaned from the web - which keep reappearing and need checking: Ano Korakiana - Άνω Κορακιάνα - is 18 kilometers from Corfu Town, about 3 from Ayios Markos. Its population in 1991 (last census) was a little more than in 1981 at 1400 - which is not the village trend. It has an orchestra founded in 1958 and a musical tradition going back to 1623 with the foundation of the Mantolinatas of the Pope (for which I will need an explanation). Ano Korakiana has 37 churches - the most interesting, to Byzantine scholars, are Saint Nicholas, the Archangel Michael (next to 208) and Saint Athanasios. The local school, a few metres east of 208, contains a small folklore collection. We heard from our friends in AK it was at risk of closing and being replaced by a psychiatric unit (What's new?). It's the birth village of the Greek actress Rena Vlahopoulou who died in 2004 at 81. She is quoted saying "I catch the boat from Patras and as I board I say to myself, now I’m at peace. I’m on my way home to Korakiana, I’m going to see my things, those who are close to me. I feel that Corfu embraces me every time I arrive." How true and I'm not even Greek, let alone Corfiot. Villages are being transformed all over the world. AK is probably no exception when it comes to a sustained communal core amid the foreign settlers and semi-settlers. It's not a 'tourist' village yet. The kafenion is open only at exclusive times. There's no restaurant or shop selling things other than provisions for residents. Notices are in Greek. Music practice can be heard at various times and chat in various registers - from outbursts of maternal invective, steady conversations, greetings, laughter, TV soap dialogue, monotonous sports commentary and chirruping domestic banter interspersed with the clinking of hardware in sinks, the acoustic of gossip shifting, as it comes outside, for washing to be hung or garden worked.