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Showing posts with label Pelekas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pelekas. Show all posts

Sunday, 18 October 2015

Love

Birmingham to Corfu - 1100 miles
Evening – less than two weeks ago - Lin and I drank red wine outside Piatsa, Lightning and thunder roamed back and forth behind Trompetta, now and then a forked flash lit the 100 yards of Democracy Street leading up to and past the bar. Lin wondered why planes didn’t get harmed by lightning and hoped the storm would have passed before the family arrived.
Stamati said “I am doing something new, Simon. Tomorrow I will have Wifi
“Oh no” said Lin “You’ll never get him out of here!”
When the rain came we went inside, to watch the last episodes of Boardwalk Empire. Earlier I’d glimpsed the lights of a plane descending below the high ground between us and the city.
After a light supper I phoned Amy.
“We’re just passing the Old Fort. We had to circle until the lighting moved on”
Around 11.30, an exciting bit on the film.
“I heard a car” said Lin. She went to the street-side balcony.
“Turn on the porch and veranda lights! Hurry up” she said stepping carefully but swiftly down our shadowed steps among wet leaves and up to the car stopped, doors open, on Democracy Street.
By the time I’d lit the house they were upon us – Oliver ahead, Amy holding Hannah and a suitcase, Lin with another suitcase. Guy off to park the car they’d picked up at the airport.
“Hullo Oliver. A kiss?” 
He kissed me. I hugged Amy. Kissed Hannah. Bags into the downstairs bedroom. Then chatting in the hallway and then all into the bedroom, Hannah in the cot we’d readied, bouncing with the suspended mobile turning slowly to her pleasure; suspended like me.
“There’s a cold beer waiting, Guy”
Lin made cheese and bacon toasties. We sat around the table in the dining room. 
“Let them cool down” she said to Oliver and to me before passing small sliced pieces to Hannah.
And Richard comes tomorrow.
“We’ll go down to their airport in the morning and pick him up” said Guy “We need to change the large car for two smaller”
**** ****
“Autumn has infiltrated summer!” I said to Vanley on the allotments on an afternoon in early September. Vine leaves were turning to red and yellow even as the black grapes sweetened. Dew was no longer dried off by mid-morning. South-west winds were sweeping a little more strongly across the Victoria Jubilee rousing the trees in Handsworth Park, especially the beech and lime overhanging an unworked corner of my neighbour’s plot. Leaves were starting to drop - to be collected for mould and, burned, for ash. In England September mirrors April with promises of the season to come; cruelties in April are solace in September, unless like us, flown 1100 miles south, we returned to summer in Greece to bring in sun-dried washing, wearing not even a sheet over us at night, nor even nightwear, swimming in sea only starting to cool after the blazing heat of June, July, and August.
With what attentiveness we both prepared the house for our guests, for Valerie come from late winter in New Zealand, then, in early October, the family, Amy, Guy, Oliver over three and Hannah just over one year. I check the diary for times and flight numbers, and, when we’re on Wifi, I review the weather forecasts for their time with us. Litter fallen and blown down the common path beside our house is bagged, weeds in cracks removed; greenery beside the track below the house is cut back; wisteria and the bougainvillea pruned with the extending loppers – then chopped up more to fill six big black plastic sacks with leafy thorned branches taken to the municipal wheelie bins on Democracy Street; our small plaka-ed garden is trimmed of brittled vine branches and heat-shrivelled grapes. I pull out overhanging Canna Lilies, cut back spiked lemon branches; sweeping dark withered lemon shells, leaves and twigs to blacken and rot on the compost. The plaka below the veranda, where, on arrival from England, we suspend a bright blue canvas to divert rain falling through the decking above, is washed and swept - several times; shutters are eased open, wiped – old webs vacuumed away; window ledges brushed and cleaned of dust; windows strenuously polished to remove a film of dried sandy rain. 
We are as assiduous indoors – every corner in all dimensions checked for ‘spider-dust’ (Oliver’s word), sucked away with apologies to spiders and harvesters; surfaces pursued with dusters and polished; carpets hung out and beaten from the balcony; tile and marble floors mopped – the bathroom cleaned on hands and knees, lavatory bowl scrubbed as far as a hand can reach (minimal use of bleach to spare the soakaway); sheets, pillow cases, quilt covers, and even a pillow, are washed and hung out to dry in warm wind and sun. Beds are moved so that occasional objects can be recovered and disposed of or restored to their places – screwed up tissues, parts of toys, a dusty bra slipped far under the bed. Stains on the floor missed a few months ago are wiped away. Toys, baby blankets and sheets brought out; a high chair and two cots unfolded, safety-gate secured between wall and newel post at the top of the stairs; an old cot side tied with reef knots to the banisters where, without it, a child could fall through; car seat brought out of storage; Oliver’s room made neat; loungers laid out on the large balcony, with tables and umbrella holders. A spare mattress is tugged from under a bed for Richard to sleep in part of the sitting room. Nooks and crannies under and behind large objects like the fridge freezer and stove are searched and cleared. Linda wonders about ways of disposing of a wasp nest entered via the eaves and sitting under the roof tiles above our bedroom. We hear their fanning at night – like heavy breathing, behind the tongue and groove over our heads.
“I can hear them eating the wood” she says.
From the balcony via a piece of fluepipe extended above us toward the nest’s entry we try spraying wasps with insecticide. Indoors the colony hums over an hour with rage and fear.
“We’ve just pissed them off”
“Leave them alone. They’ve not bothered us so far” I say
Having already done the same in our room after, several years ago, I was twice woken in the dark after being stung on the face, Lin satisfies herself that every crack and knothole in Oliver’s room, next to ours, is filled with silicone and flakes of polystyrene. The house is readied.
*** *** ***

Now winter’s coming here. Sokraki is in low cloud above Ano Korakiana. Sun beams angled through grey cloud decorate the sea with pools of silver. There's mist above and below us at sunrise.

They're gone - first Richard, who flew in for a week, a day after the others arrived; I dropped him at the airport on Thursday. We had two more days of children, until they too went on a Saturday morning. We left our two cars with the hire company by departures at Kapodistria. The family hugged and kissed me and strolled with their luggage into the busy concourse. I unfolded my bike and cycled into the city to catch a Green Bus home. Despite the timetable’s claim, none ran this Saturday to Ano Korakiana, so I took one to Paleokastritsa, getting down at Doctor’s Bridge. Twice the chain slipped off. My hands were oily easing it on again. I cycled most of the last two miles to the village, cheered up by several neighbours waving from their cars. I walked up the steep path to our quiet house.  
We were soon clearing beds, piling up washing for when the showers stopped; putting away toys.
“Did we waste any of that time with them?”
“We stayed up very late every morning” said Lin
“Yes but that was Guy and Amy’s holiday. Getting our help with the children too. And Richard did loads of good things during his week!...I miss all that noise…Well, I do and I don’t”
She nods.
“We had some good walks – down to Ipsos by back roads with Richard. After that meal at Strapunto, Amy and I walked back to the village in the dark. We’ve been out plenty and had good meals here. Been to Kanoni, to the city, had ice creams there and at Emeral, been to empty closed Sidari for swimming on ‘our’ beach. Did you see? Oliver’s no longer scared of seaweed. It’s pigeon panic now.”
“Except two days ago on Theotoki he started chasing pigeons”
“They all got bitten by mosquitos playing in the sand…paddling into the evening at Kontokali beach. Remember how hard the wind blew when we had giros and souvlaki by the shore by the Venetian Arsenal? We went up to Kaiser’s Throne...
Richard, Amy and Simon on the terrace of the Levant, Pelekas



...and had a very late lunch at Vasilik’s Akropolis at joined tables on a concrete roof above Pelekas. That time I was so grumpy about not going to have a picnic at Palia Sinies we ended up exploring the Byzantine fortress at Kassiopi...

We walked around the old walls of the castle

...which we’ve never seen…I didn’t realise just how large it was…a narrow path up from the harbour, with broken steps and rubble, up which we clambered, Guy carrying Hannah's push-chair, she held by Lin and I as we ascended. No signage, no tedious health and safety notices. I recounted, or rather invented for Oliver - several times on his constant demand 'Again!' -  stories about soldiers in the castle keeping barbaric mainland pirates away by giving them ‘ouchies’. Evenings at Piatsa. And…and…I love it that Oliver's learned the endless use of the word 'Why' ?" It reminded me of my Greek brother-in-law saying long ago  that sometimes, to that question, you must answer firmly 'Because I say so"; the more amusing because with a doctorate in philosophy that's the last question he would allow himself or credit from any other authority - his father excepted.
Hannah is a soldier in Ouchy Castle - Ollie's version of the great fortress

I had been feeling, all day and the evening before, a familiar ache in my stomach; one that comes with departures, heartache for what is no more than a temporary loss, but with the texture of mourning. Lin, who’s never believed in the chatting cure, is in a self-contained reverie, reading, snoozing and reading again, returning non-committal answers to my silence-filling “If you like” “Don’t mind”
“What’s that noise?” I say
“The fridge”
“Will you cut my hair?”
“It’s cold. Maybe in a moment”
“Would you like half a vegemite and cheese toastie?”
“No ta”
I loaded a batch of washing; hung it on the line. There was a listless breeze but enough sunny intervals for half of it to dry. The rest I put aside for hanging out tomorrow. Flies which assume the right to land on your face and body have replaced the bees of the summer. Rain has brought out mosquitoes in far greater numbers. My shirts are long sleeved. I’m wearing socks.

Tuesday, 18 September 2012

Narrow streets

A long time ago in Bequia in the Windward Islands of the Caribbean an old single handed sailor who’d cross and recrossed oceans in his small yacht told me he'd visited Miami when its shores were lined with palms and a few shacks; its marshes covered in pink flamingos. By the time we arrived, in 1965, in my small boat, skyscrapers filled the horizon. The US immigration officer looking brusquely through our papers and gazing suspiciously down at our 22 foot vessel asked "Have you rats on board?" then left us to ourselves, moored to an endless concrete jetty not far from a pre-fab public convenience, filthy with graffiti and litter. Yet last night in Corfu, we enjoyed a 2010 film called, The Kids Are All Right – brilliantly written by Stuart Blumberg and Lisa Cholodenko who directs; utterly convincing and engaging performances. Parents, Jules (Julianne Moore) and Nic (Annette Benning),  are bringing up two teenagers, Joni and Laser, in a smart LA suburb. The boy wants, as allowed by law when you hit 18, to find out and meet the sperm donor involved in their conception. This is Paul who runs an organic market garden. The plot winds up from there. There’s a crisis but all’s conditionally as well as life allows by the credits. When I was enjoying the unspoiled coasts of the Caribbean, and the Mediterranean, between Spain and Greece, in small boats there were still Jim Crow laws in the Southern States of America, while homosexuality was undiscussable, horrid and illegal until 1972 even in those permissive and exotic Scandinavian countries.
In 1975 and 1976 Linda and I spent two summers walking, taking buses and trains along the northern coast of the Iberian Peninsular as far as northern Portugal. We swam one hot afternoon across the clear water of the Minho – Portugal to Spain and back - from one sandy shore that we had utterly to ourselves to the other, equally deserted, so we could remember we’d crossed and recrossed a national border without having to show papers. We picnicked on stretches of Atlantic beach, pristine, white sand, with no-one about, no roads or buildings, just occasional tracks off a country lane. We didn’t have to be 'nudists' to bath without swimming costumes. These were places it would have been odder to put them on. Thin women knelt in circles around a village pond their arms and backs muscled by the work of washing and wringing clothes by hand. We stayed in a hotel once. The rest of the time we turned up where the train or bus took us, went into a bar, and bargained for a room in someone’s home – to us tiny sums, and we were treated as guests not customers. This idyllic coast was ours, with myriad places where we could have coast and sea and sky to ourselves because its population had been on the losing side in the Spanish Civil War. Franco, still in power, ensured that Galicia received no investment for economic development and so no support for tourism.
“I’m tired of you going on about where you can go on your bicycle” grumbled Lin a few days ago.
I was trying to guide her in the car to an area of the island I’d come across last October cycling west avoiding cankered Paleocastritsa. We turned off the Sidari Road above Skripero down a winding lane through which I pedalled passing things I could smell and touch, driving through the small platea of Doukades, descending towards the Paleo road, winding through Gardelades, Linda already anxious negotiating the narrow plaka’d way into a platea from which we had to reverse and retrace our route, where I on my bike had simply gone where I could walk.
We recovered our way to the main road and followed a sign to Liapades, ascending into the village on a steepening road of scored concrete built for passing donkeys. “I’m sure it was up here” I muttered
“Are you quite sure?”
“Yes up here”
The wing mirrors were millimetres from walls on either side and no obvious way through. At another Y-junction Lin said
“I’m walking. You drive”
She wandered ahead. I waited then followed, to a cul-de-sac, with a narrow path upward.
“On my bike I…”
The mood shifted down a gear. I turned in a cramped space, drove back and tried another ascent with the same result
 “I don’t understand. When I…”
“Oh shut up about you and your bicycle. Why don’t we go home and you can go off on your own?”
“But I wanted us to find this place. It’s delightful.”
“Yeah yeah”
We returned in morose and resentful silence to the Paleo road and headed south
“Don’t you like exploring?”
“Yes but not if it risks the car, the brakes and leaves us stranded in someone’s backyard”
“Well these villages weren’t meant for cars. They were built for walking and donkeys”
 “OK so you go and visit them on your bicycle”
In fact the car, small cars, have colonised these villages quite effectively, with car parking bays in the most inaccessible places.
“What it must be like driving down one of those alleys and meeting someone else coming the other way”
“Yes. At least in Ano Korakiana, there are plenty of passing places”
We took a turn into the Ropa Valley heading easily along the straight smooth road south, western hills between us and the coast, we took a turn right towards Giannades, then, because neither of us wanted to try negotiating another hillside village, turned left on a narrow cracked road with ragged edges that ran us as southward as the main road beside a reeded riverbed approaching a long row of tall eucalyptus trees like the poplars of a Dutch landscape and entering an area of broad green close cropped lawns - a golf course edging into the surrounding pastures of the plain.
We turned into a track, which, metalled again, pointed us vaguely to Vatos and Kelia. We followed it gingerly, turning off at a sign to Mirtiotissa Beach, descending through olives to a small parking space above a sheer drop covered in pine shrubs, with cars, and a scooter, backing out, whose place we took, facing the empty sea perched on cliffs.
We wandered down a steep concrete path. I peered over an edge at a small beach far below with umbrellas and sunbeds.
“There are people down there without any clothes”
We descended to where more cars and scooters were parked one couple struggling with gears as they ascended and another pair walking, ignoring my passing smile in the way of people used to city streets.  I was irritated trying to be cheerful, abhorring people. We got to the sea, a short descent past a flight of steps and sign ‘Nudists only’ and found a space close to breaking waves where we could picnic and try to recover the pleasure of our company. A wasp found us. We started to chat biting into large sandwiches of dark bread filled with soft cheese and prosciutto, a scooter and walkers passing behind us, the gentle surf chivvying the rocks.
We drove on south via Pelekas, a village the same size as Ano Korakiana. Their government must have decided the community’s future lay with attracting the custom of tourists – filling it with short-rent apartments, studios, hotels, pools, restaurants, beachwear and souvenir shops. Casual strangers wandered its curving central street. We descended to the main road and drove steadily past Kardamalia to Milia, where our route, now closer to the island’s eastern shore turned north towards the city again, becoming a five kilometre strip-mall of shops, garages, eateries and emptied premises for sale and rent, once separate settlements indistinguishably mingled along a corridor of hoardings, concrete, glass, aluminium and plastic – an autodependent environment of placelessness that afflicts the world wherever cars and their users define the planning rules. On the edge of the airport, I guided Lin through turns around the city that brought us onto Ioulias Andreadi and the road north to Ano Korakiana.
**** *****
I was in town yesterday trying to complete some insurance paperwork, being given the runaround – where you’re asked for a number not needed before, you get it after an inconvenient journey, but once you return are asked for another number or told it contains “not enough numbers” or on being asked for and digging out an official UK document having it looked at doubtfully and asked “Is this all?” and anyway the whole thing must now to “be checked by Athens”
“Yiati?”
 “Because of the new laws”
The usual way out of these situations is to walk away and find another provider, which is how I’d originally found this one. The expected way on the Greek side is a personal smoothing payment off the books, which I don’t do. It’s nearly always men doing this, trying to be smart and just being annoying. I stay completely relaxed, smile ‘goodbye’ and start looking around. I bought an Athens News and went to a street side café on Alexandras Avenue where my ouzo was delivered without a jug of water by a waitress for whom the drink was unfamiliar. When I asked for water she bought me a plastic bottle and charged it on my bill. I couldn’t be bothered to grumble, just won’t go there again.
The news as I already knew is miserable. Samaras interviewed talking in circles about liquidity and Tsipras promising to unite the left against austerity and negotiate a new contract with the EU and the Justice Minister, in a small footnote story, ‘considering’ a tougher line against racism after men in Golden Dawn T-shirts meted out street justice to non-Greek market traders who couldn't or wouldn’t show permits in Rafina and Mesolonghi, posting pictures of themselves smashing stalls on YouTube.
We had our own small hint of such futile xenophobia on a walk through Venetia the other evening. A dog snarled and barked at us through a porch gate near the last corner of the village as we strolled by. The owner in a yard opposite and just above hurled curses at us for “threatening my dog with a stick” – mine or Lin’s walking stick.
“No” I said “Your dog always barks when people walk by”
This produced a stream of invective - ‘ μαλάκα’ or ‘wanker’ being preferred.
“So is that the name of your dog?”
More cursing “Don’t make me come down”
“Come down but how about a bit of filotimo?”
“Fuck filotimo. Why don’t you go back where you come from?”
“But we’re from here” I said daringly.
We strolled on, man and dog snarling. Later in town Richard P observed
“Hm. That’s probably identified one of your Chrysi Avgi voters in the village”
Bad eggs in villages are everywhere - not just Greece. I used to be bothered by them at other times in other places. Now it's usually water off a duck's back. This is the first example of ill-manners I’ve come across in Ano Korakiana in the five years we’ve been here; less a sign of the times I suspect, than a kind of fixture in any community - like Jud Fry in Oklahoma, the 'lonely misfit in a cast filled with wholesomeness and charm.'
*** *** ***
We were at Sally's in Ipsos and Amy came on the line, on Skype and then left us to chat with our grandson who must already be taking video conferencing for granted. The wonder of this is that whereas a phone conversation with a baby of six months would be brief if not unworkable, both of us using the older language of smiles and gesture plus voice could engage with Oliver...
...while now and them Amy on other errands could pop into the picture and chat to us out of picture as she moved around the kitchen. Once or twice the dog entered left and exited right.
*** ***
On the village website on 17 Sept there's mention of 'more thefts':
Κλοπών συνέχεια…Νέο κρούσμα κλοπής χθές στον κάτω κεντρικό δρόμο, σε οικία εκτός του οικισμού. Οι ιδιοκτήτες απουσίασαν για λίγη ώρα και κάποιοι βρήκαν την ευκαιρία να ανοίξουν το σπίτι και να πάρουν αντικείμενα αξίας...Ειδοποιήθηκε σχετικά η αστυνομία για τα περαιτέρω,,,
Επίσης,
Το περασμένο Σάββατο το μεσημέρι άγνωστοι μπήκαν σε οικία επί του κεντρικού δρόμου και πήραν μικρό χρηματικό ποσό, ενώ ο σπιτονοικοκύρης κοιμόταν. Η γειτονιά συζητούσε ανάστατη το συμβάν…
Ακόμη, άγνωστοι έκλεψαν τα γαλόπουλα από οικία εκτός του πυρήνα του οικισμού αφού πρώτα τα… πυροβόλησαν!!
Και μη χειρότερα…
Thefts continued...On Saturday afternoon strangers entered a house on the main road and took a small amount of money, while the landlord slept. The community has been discussing the incident ..Also someone unknown stole turkeys from a house beyond the main part of the village...
*** ***
Posts by my daughter and her friend Liz following a link post on Facebook from our son, Richard:

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Simon Baddeley